Goodbye, Fir Milenge, India!

We're off today after a couple of fantastic days of sightseeing, a bit more shopping, an invitation to visit our rickshaw driver's home, a very enjoyable dinner with the generous and talented doctors, and one last morning at the hotel with a walk in the neighborhood.  I felt ill at ease on our first walk here almost a month ago, and quite accustomed to the noise, traffic, garbage, slow smiles, wet and muddy streets, and skinny dogs today.  The rain, the colors, and the smiles that do arise, are part of the magic of India.

We'll write a post again at some point when we're back in California.  We want to post some of our pictures from our last excursions - yes, we finally had some adventures.

Let's see. . . no visa needed to get back into the US - so we don't foresee any delays.  We're really looking forward to the taxi drive to Mumbai.  This time we get to see all the chaos in the daylight.

Looking forward to being with all of our loved ones soon.  Until then - Hum Tumse Pyar Karta Hoon.


Laurie and Cloud

Pomp and Circumstance(s)

So, last night we're just about back to the hotel, returning in the rick-shaw with Nand Kumar on our little side street, and suddenly swooping and swerving in front of us is a motorcycle (not at all uncommon).  But this time it was a little different, actually jolting.  Why, you ask...I'll tell you…but first let me digress for just one moment.  Much to my surprise, since we have been here, I have not been able to fill up one hand counting the amount of Westerners that I have seen, so it came as quite an equal surprise to see the motorcycle last night swooping and swerving in front of us with a Papa John's Pizza Delivery box on the back of it.  It was like a futuristic flash of a billboard sign conveying to us that yes, we will be returning back home to the States in a short while (so here is something to start the process of cultural re-

orientation). Well, it stopped at the apartment building just before our hotel (for which I was at least glad to see that it wasn't being delivered to where we were staying).

Just prior to that we had passed the local group of dolak (big bass drums) players getting ready for the upcoming Ganesh Festival the beginning of September this year.  It is ten days of celebration to the God of success, remover of obstacles, learning and wisdom.  From all accounts it is a mighty good time, full of celebratory feelings and infectiously rhythmic music (we both wish we were hear to enjoy some of it, but not so much as to alter any plans).  And, speaking of Ganesh, Laurie and I had our first opportunity today to actually visit a Ganesh Temple and do some praying there.

 On the steps leading up to the temple, a three dimensional mural, and an extremely cute and charming traveller

After running a few errands before Laurie’s last evening session (like buying a new piece of luggage to haul all of the medicines, herbs, oils, salves, ghees, powders and pills for 90-100 days, and stopping by the tailor’s to pick up some items), 

The very talented tailor

we had a bit of extra time so Nand Kumar suggested we go to beautiful Sarras Park and the temple for Ganesh that is there.  

Sarras Park; a beautiful little temple structure (not the actual one) amongst the greenery

When we climbed the stairs to the outdoor temple we observed for a short spell; watching the people arrive and then reach up to ring a large ship’s bell to announce that they would be entering under the roof of the temple to come in and pray, and a very nice gregarious local man struck up a chat with us.  

A little blurry, but you get the idea - ring the bell and let Ganesh you are entering to pray.

After a short conversation he offered to take us inside to walk us thru the procedure of praying to Ganesh for help in working thru obstacles and asking for assistance toward success.  It was a very relaxed scene and after circling the housed altar of Ganesh we then sat down on the floor and continued chatting for awhile; as did many other folks underneath the temple’s wall-less roof.  Very tranquil, not to mention having first approached the temple by walking around a small pond filled with lily pads and over a bridge that had the uncanny ability to transport us back to Giverny in France (home of the Impressionist painter Monet).

Not exactly Giverny but it certainly activated the memory of our visit there

By the way, I’d like to pause calmly for a moment and just mention that:

WE’RE DONE WITH OUR TREATMENTS…YAHOOOO!!!!! I don’t have to get up early tomorrow morning and put on the same clothes I have for the past 21 straight days and miss the wonderful complimentary buffet breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant.  I am, to put it mildly, PUMPED!!!

Now let’s not lose our heads here…we are after all returning with a huge suitcase full of herbs, powders, oils, pills, ointments, and ghees to to ingest, boil, swallow, and rub on and into our skin and muscles for the next three months.  But, hey, we can, and will spend a fair portion of the next two days actually tooling around to see some of the sites of Pune.  Nand Kumar has agreed to drive us for another two days and we have lined up two more temples (one Ganesh and one Parvati <wife of Shiva, mother of Ganesh>), a more beautiful park than the one we saw today, a historical museum, a little more shopping-dhara (the newly discovered, highly effective panchakarma discipline that uses no oils, steam, rice, medicine, milk, or any of the above; just shopping, pure and simple.  It really seemed to work for Laurie when she went with Dr. Aruna that one day, so we’re going to try it together. Not sure yet if it is as effective on the male gender.), and a Monday evening dinner party at a nice restaurant with Dr. Pendse and the other doctors (though Dr. Gajanan has gone home for the next 5-6 days to the south to visit his family in their small town amongst the mountains and waterfalls…we’ll miss him.).  When I finished my session today Vikrant presented me with a beautiful drawing he did freehand as a gift.  He is quite the artist, which is a wonderful counterbalance to being a doctor (he plans on studying Sanskrit and uncovering some of the hidden meanings of the ancient texts, while Gajanan plans to open his own practice in the next 3 months down south in his hometown).

  

Beautiful statue of Excellent Prince Duff (in the Park), with Ganesh in the background

So hey, graduation party Monday night.  Vikrant has been sick the past couple of days (Gajanan was for about 6 days before him) and today when he arrived (coughing up a storm and looking very ragged) I said to him that he was going to be dancing on the table Monday night (he was the only one who did not know of the impending plan to have a get together).  After a momentary pause, he cocked his head and looked at Gajanan and me and just said in a very quizzical voice, “Why?!”  Well, Gajanan and I had a great laugh at that, as poor Vikrant truly had no idea what we were talking about.  During the course of the 21 days the three of us developed a wonderful relationship of pulling each other’s legs, providing a great deal of entertainment and laughter; sometimes at rather inopportune times (for instance, it is not advisable to either laugh, or cause laughter while a busti is being performed; or should I say induced…or should I just stop saying anything more about it).

Also, I have been getting more of a hang for Hindi as time goes, only to find out that maybe I should be speaking more Marathi, the native tongue in these parts.  There are a lot of languages in India; even learned a smidgen of Urdu.  But in the middle of a sentence an English word or phrase gets thrown in.  It certainly isn’t easy to decipher what’s kosher and what isn’t; kind of like watching a two lane road become a four or five lane road before your very eyes…you know you’re actually seeing it but you have absolutely no idea how it has become what it is, how it continues to exist in such a state, and how on earth you would plug yourself into such a scene if left to your own devices.

Well, I think that will do it for now, other than to say from both Laurie and myself:  Hum Tumse Pyar Karta Hoon! (We Love You!), Fir Milenge (Hindi) or Nantar Bhetu (Marathi) (See you later), and Shuba Raatri (Good Night).

Oh, and to each and every one of us:  Shuba Prahwas (Safe Journey)…

 Three Dimensional Mural on the way up the steps to the Ganesh Temple; pretty cool, huh?!

 Pagoda in the park...Peaceful, Tranquil (met another very friendly man here with his young son)

21 - a Famous Milestone # = Final Panchakarma Treatment Day!

Cloud is at the clinic right now - probably getting his pinda sweda - rice fomentation treatment.  We've both been getting trained in how to do this to each other.  Tonight we'll get our final training.  It's trickier than it looks.  You have to keep the temperature of the medicated milk very hot, dip the cloth covered bolus into the hot milk, wipe off the excess, pat the body a couple of times if it's very hot, and then press into the area to massage with just the right pressure according to the individual's ability to bear it.  The degree of heat is also according to each person's ability to bear it.  You have to re-dip after a few strokes to keep the rice hot.

I've had greasy hair for six nights now - tonight will be the last and I'll finally be able to wash my hair with shampoo tomorrow morning.  This is an effective way to make your shampoo last while traveling - don't wash your hair!  After each night's shirodhara treatment (oil poured on the forehead with forehead tipped slightly back) my hair is so wet and full of oil that I've been using the hotel shower caps to cover my head under the scarf until I can get back to the hotel and use a hotel towel to swab it enough that it won't seep through another towel into the pillow.  The oil gives a rich reddish brown color to the white towel.  Fortunately Cloud explained to someone in housekeeping that we're doing panchakarma and this particular woman knows all about it. So now there is at least an explanation for the strange looking towels we leave in the room.  They always come back white again, so at least they're not ruined - unlike some of the old clothing we brought with us.

The oil on the forehead is such a wonderful process.  Last night I was feeling worried about the fact that I'm not going to take tramadol (impedes the oil healing) but yet life will continue as usual once I get back to Seb Town and the feet are still not able to handle as much walking as I'd like at this point.  Yes, that will change over the next 2 - 3 months as the panchakarma continues to work its magic - but I was worried about the future.  Anjali gave me my 3rd or 4th lecture on the subject (all meant to help - I sincerely thank Anjali for her direct communication and her efforts to realign this stubborn, western mind) - then kindly added that many people react the way I'm reacting but that I must stay positive for the healing to happen.  Then it was shirodhara time.  I lay there processing our talk while the oil poured down and wasn't getting sleepy as I had during the past five treatments.  It occurred to me to follow Anjali's advice and think only upon this moment.  How easy it was to fix my mind on the pleasant feeling of slightly warm oil gently pouring across my forehead from side to side.  I had brought in my computer and was listening to Joanne Shenandoah - Native American singer - and peacefulness reigned.   Sometime later I was waking up as my hair was getting wrung out and oil poured into the bucket on the floor.

Dr. Pendse and our practioners are very pleased with our progress as Cloud said in a previous blog.  He has improved beyond the hopes and expectations of the doctor and so have I.  Anjali said my pulses and soft and supple muscles show me to be 60% improved!  My pulse is bouncy, energetic and much more positive.  Ya know those boulders we all usually have in our shoulders and upper back, and the mini boulders in our necks? - well I don't have them anymore.  There are no lumps left - except the one that has been there for 30+ years near my shoulder - but that one is much reduced.  By doing the daily yoga exercises from Mrs. Aruna Pendse and continuing the oil massage and pinde sweda on that area 3x/ week (thanks in advance, Cloud) this too will go away.  The area needs "strengthening."

Sneha, such a fantastic practictioner - kind with wonderful hands - and her oh, so, cute
son Shalvah ( This may not be the correct spelling ..... sorry if I'm wrong).

I'll be oil and rice massaging Cloud as well.  We're going to place my old massage table in the kitchen near the stove as the milk has to be simmering while performing pinde sweda.  The next time you come by for dinner, be sure to look carefully before ladling creamy looking soup or sticky rice into your bowl from the stove.  You've been warned.

I've already begun the yoga exercises and I've been working hard to stretch the tendons in the feet and back of the leg.  I've been pulling the bones in the foot and deeply massaging the scar tissue there from 3 previous surgeries.  I'm determined to make those bones move into their correct position.  The panchakarma treatments have established a foundation in our bodies for further healing and progress.  If we follow the protocols we've been given and take our daily medicines, we will see continued progress over the next 2 - 3 months.  We have to continue to work oil into the areas of the body that are still in need of more healing - and the rice fomentations will soften as well as strengthen.  The herbs that have been boiled into the milk (then drained), the milk itself, and the rice "milk" that mixes in, are all strengthening to the body.    This, along with the more than 20 herbs that are infused into the medicated oil we're using enter not only the muscles, but the bones and nerves - nourishing, cleansing, lubricating, every part of the body.

We will be purchasing a new suitcase on the way to the clinic this afternoon.  I'm going for my final treatment and Cloud is coming for the rice fomentation massage lesson and to pack up all the medicines we are bringing home with us - enough for 90 - 100 days.  We also hope to bring home some difficult to get in the U.S. herbs for Dr. Helen Thomas for use in her clinic.  Dr. Pendse has been in communication with her and Craig and they will be overseeing our progress back in the USA.

The next two days will be our own, and on the third we take off in the silver bird on high.  Two actually: one all the way to Newark, a lovely 16 hour (!) flight and then back to SFO.  We're planning to see a couple of temples to Ganesha tomorrow - can't wait.  They say they're beautiful.  While there, I'll send prayers for the removal of obstacles to the success of our and all our loved ones' successes in all positive endeavors.  Also for lovely Judy's free unimpeded flight to the land of milk and honey.  Ganesha has his work cut out for him here in India.  He came to the right place.  I'll ask if he could please find someone who could help us out over in the USA.  We could really use a Remover of Obstacles, especially certain obstacles wearing dark suits!

Shades of Green!

Below our third floor window we can see the unfinished building next door.  As in any available shelter - people are living in it, on the bottom floor.  They've erected some walls and we can see a small fire burning for cooking food.  Seven or eight people of a variety of ages live there.

This is the trash that piles up outside their wall.  There is nowhere to take it and in many of the areas of the city - it looks as though it never gets picked up.  People sweep areas and burn small piles of burnable trash - but there is no service to take the trash away.  This is what happens when almost no one pays taxes.  

This young cat found a great bed on the second floor of the building where some bundles are stored.

Caged Tiger, Smiling Doctor

Okay, repeat after me (melodically of course, following along with that old children's melody; with apologies for any word changes...as I was not really fond of some of the original material)

Ek (Ache - one) lovely,
Don (Doe - two) lovely,
Teen (three) lovely,
Indians,

Char (four) lovely,
Panch (five) lovely,
Che (six) lovely,
Indians

Saatt (seven) lovely,
Aat (eight) lovely,
Nau (No - nine) lovely,
Indians

Dus (rhymes with bus - 10) lovely
Indian Goys (Yes, Judaism is not exactly big here, and I wanted to include everyone).

There, you got to sing, and learn your basic Hindi numbers all at the same time...wasn't that fun (please insert only positive responses here).

 

Daily Hindi lessons at the front desk.  Counting Sebs (Sabes - Apples) has been very helpful.

Well, last night Laurie and I both had a meeting with Dr. Pendse (on Thursday afternoon we will have up to a two hour meeting to go over all of our questions and what we need to be doing for the next 2-3 months), and the report was very positive indeed.  After taking my pulses Dr. Pendse indicated that it felt like a caged tiger, ready to get out.  As for Laurie's he was also very pleased at the bounce that was back in her pulse and called Dr. Anjali into the office to take her pulse while he stood by beaming.  After she checked Laurie's pulses I asked her if she wanted to feel what a caged tiger rearing to be free felt like.  Of course she politely humored me.

I had explained to Dr. Pendse that the previous day I had held on to my busti oil for at least 8 hours ("He Who now Holds onto His Oil For a Very Long Time") and the bulk of it for about 21 hours.

My various Ladus (Ladu means ball).  The ones on the left and middle I eat in the morning before going to the clinic by doctor's orders (they are rather rich and heavy, made with various flours, sugar and ghee).  The ones on the right (rajgeera - pronounced raz-geerah / for some reason Laurie usually refers to them as ra-goolie.  I think she believes we're in Italy) I eat just before busti time.  You know, "Just two balls of Ladu help the busti stay in, the busti staaay innnn, the busti staaay innn, in the most delightful way..."  By the way, I'm getting sick of sweets...though I'm looking forward to some Gulab Jamun soon.

I then mentioned that my legs the previous night had felt as if they were going thru growing pains (quite uncomfortable) and Dr. Pendse smiled and said that both pieces of information were like "music to my ears".  He is feeling that the body is now taking over internally and that it is a very good sign indeed.  Laurie, during her evening session, had become so comfortable during the Shirodhara method that they let her sleep for a spell before waking her to come into our meeting.  I queried Dr. Pendse as to what percentage improvement he would assign to me, since initially he had indicated a conservative hope for 25%.  Well yesterday he thought about it and stated "40 - 45%"; which of course feels great, but there is still some ways to go.  Unfortunately we did not ask what percentage he would assign to Laurie but suffice to say that she too is moving along in the right direction, with some ways to go.

We have established that though we have come a long way with our treatments while we have been here in India, it does not stop here.  We will be planning on returning home with a myriad of herbs, oils, powders, treatment instructions to perform on each other and daily yogic exercises for a minimum of 2-3 months.  The rice bolus fomentations (Navarkizhi or Shali Shashtika Pinda Sweda - A massage to the body with small linen bags filled with cooked Navara rice <cooked in cow's milk and mixed with an herbal decoction> after a liberal application of medicated oil over the whole body) will be an important element (we are each to be taught and trained before leaving) and after I saw Dr. Aruna today for issues with the bottom of my left (fourth metatarsal), we both have instructions for yogic exercises to do alone and ways to help each other with our feet problems.

Dr. Aruna was magnificent, explaining to me and showing me how the issue on the bottom of my left foot corresponds to an area in the crook of my ankle that is actually affected by the top of my fibula being out of alignment.  She then proceeded to move up the leg, having me feel where a portion of one my outer upper quadricep muscles has dislodged from the bulk of the muscle and has stiffened while trying to carry my weight.  This has been exacerbated by my hip being out; caused by an issue with my bottom two lumbar vertebrae.  She took time to work her way up the leg, having me understand what is going on and then explaining a variety of exercises to strengthen various areas and pull things back into alignment (hence correcting the bottom of the foot issue that has been plaguing me along with everything else).  A mere picture of overall health, yep, that's me...

Oh, Thanks for sending me flowers...that just cheered me up right away

This is an important time for both Laurie and I to try and get things back where they belong as the Panchakarma has provided suppleness and elasticity to muscles, tendons, and tissues that have not been there for quite some time.  Needless to say, we will not be coming home 'cured' but well on the road that will point us in the proper direction if we continue to follow the pathway we have been shown here in India.  We have both been taken with the overall wholistic approach of Ayurveda for just about everything we can think of; especially their laser like focus on ferreting out the root cause of whatever problem that presents itself (which quite often is not at all where those of us who have grown up in the West would think the root cause would really be).  Symptoms, rather than grabbing a central focus, become an informative tool, as if a canary in the mine, for some deeper issue that has been left untreated for far too long.

We have each now had 18 treatments, with three to go; and though we appreciate how much they help us, we are looking forward to them being over.  I keep asking what the graduation party is going to be like and since I can't get a straight answer I'm guessing we're in for some big surprise party.  Oh my, I better start working on my look of surprise when it actually happens :-)

 STREET SCENES

So, you still find chicken appetizing?

Corn anyone?

In closing, in case you missed it on my Facebook posting, and in keeping with today's musical theme:

It's Ayurvedic-fragilistic-expi-ali​-Healing, if you say it loud enough it's really Quite Appealing; and if you do it long enough you'll have that Healing Feeling, Ayurvedic-fragilistic-expi-ali​-Healing...Humm-diddle-liddle-​liddle-lum-diddle-eye, Humm-diddle-liddle-liddle-lum-​diddle-eye...AGAIN!!!

Are you pulling my toe?

This entry is especially for those who suffer foot problems of their own - and unfortunately I know there are a lot of you out there:

I went with Cloud to the clinic today so that I could get another treatment and consultation with Madame Aruna Pendse who does chiropractic work.  She uses something called a "thumper" and thumps the vertebrae in carefully selected spots rather than the typical adjustment we are used to in The States.


She can see that I'm not properly aligned and will give me exercises to do on Thursday for my spine when I see her again on Thursday.  


Today she looked at my feet - and guess what?  She has a solution for them!  She showed Cloud and I some manipulations that must be done 2x / day on my feet.  It involves pulling on the toes, pulling the calcaneous or heel bone away and up (I'm sitting with legs stretched out in front on a table) - stretching the tight tendon on the back of the leg.  She explained that the bones are pressing on the nerves and that due to the tight and shortened tendon, by weight is being carried by the toes, metatarsals and and small bones under the inside ankle and the arch.  (So true.)  Those small bones aren't strong enough to hold my weight and causes strain in that area and on the arch resulting in pain there  and below the ankle.


Note:  My heel is the one area that doesn't hurt to put weight on in my feet.  And she says that due to the misalignment, my weight is not being carried by the heel - which is designed to carry it.


After panchakarma treatment - our bodies have now absorbed so much oil into our tissues - even into our nerve endings, that these manipulations will actually be very effective.  When the bones are pulled out of place (pulling of toes) this moves the metatarsals and when they fall back into place they will move into the correct place (body wisdom).  The same with pulling out the heel - the area where the foot meets the calf - when pulled out the bones move - they have space and make movement.  Right now they are not in the correct place.


When Cloud pushes against the toes and forefoot, he is stretching the ligament up the back of the leg.  I can also do a common exercise for that ligament.


After just ONE treatment - my foot feels better when walking.  She could not say how many days of treatments would be necessary - weeks, a couple of months at most - while we're still oiled up.  For me it's all about the nerve pain.  To think that the bones could move out - just as they moved in back in 2003 - well, all I can say is HALLELUJAH!!


Panchakarma continues to reveal it's benefits.  What's next?


Thanks for all the wonderful support out there in Blogland.  We really do appreciate it!!

When the rain stops, people hang their laundry wherever they can!

Where were you 6 - 7,000 years ago?

Laurie here:

As I mentioned before, during the pouring of the maroon syrupy oil on the feet, Anjali kindly answers my questions about all things Indian.   I hold back - because I don't think she wants to be a teacher all day and during the evening too (with me) but she does share some priceless knowledge which I appreciate.

My rather rudimentary, unstudied, quite ignorant understanding of the origins of Ayurveda are that there were 6 main developers, practitioners, teachers of the original wisdom of Ayurveda.  These 6 (men?) lived during the same time - 6 - 7,000 years ago.  Many believe that the gods taught them Ayurveda principals, philosophy, methods, herbs, etc.  Then again, trial and error works well too, if you have plenty of time. . . and patients.  These practices were handed down in the oral tradition and eventually written down.  As I mentioned before, the oils used are from a recipe in a book that is 3,000 years old.  Only one of the six "schools" of knowledge has survived through the ages - and that is the one we are fortunate enough to experience.


Last night and the night before, I was given a "new" treatment.  It was prescribed using the ancient and phenomenal method of "listening" to the pulses (remember, we've heard there are 15 separate pulses), and a method we're all familiar with -listening to the patient talk (one that many doctors don't actually do very well).


I had been telling Anjali for a couple of days that I was very discouraged about my feet getting healed.  Ever since getting Tramadol out of my system, the pain was back as it had always been.   At the same time, all of my leg, arm, etc. muscles have become smooth and supple like they were when I was much, much, younger.  Bye bye tightness and toxins!!  (Cloud's tight muscles have transformed from inhuman, iron-like material to tapioca pudding.)


I confessed that I was beginning to think that just like before, nothing would change the foot condition.   Anjali looked surprised and alarmed and told me "No, you will get better.  The pain will be reduced," and other encouraging things.  I tried to believe her but each day the feet were not improving.


Then on Friday we had our appt with Dr. Pendse.  He told me my pulses showed a marked improvement - and I was making good progress.  But I expressed doubt in the pain ever leaving my feet.  He also looked at me with alarm.  "Why would you think that?" I told him that perhaps what I have is not systemic, but a physical impingement on the nerves and that is why I'm not getting better.  I also expressed the same idea about the pain in my upper back.  In a round about way he told me not to focus so much on what was bothering me.  He agreed that the foot ailment is not systemic (like Cloud's condition) and that my feet would get better.

Anjali taking Cloud's pulses

The Young Docs: Gajanan, Sneha, Anu Radha, & Anjali

The previous time I had seen him he said that from listening to the pulses he could see that I carried the pain in my feet and the grief of losing Judy, but that I was keeping it at bay.  After he heard me speak and read Anjali's notes regarding my progress over the past three days, he must have changed his mind on this because he said that I was to come at 4:30 the next day and a new treatment would begin.  Anjali would be pouring oil on my forehead.


From the little I've read about the wide range of panchakarma treatments, I know this one is used to help the patient with distress in the mind and a whole host of other ailments.  Gajanan said it would have analgesic effects and due to the loss in the family and my worries about my feet - it would be administered because these thoughts/feelings can interfere with healing.  


Dr. Pendse said I was to come in the next morning as well and get a chiropractic treatment and assessment from Aruna, his wife and she would assess whether the back pain is due to something that required a physical manipulation.   (She did treat my spine.  This has helped, and I'll go again on Tues for another adjustment.  At that time she may look at my feet.)

This is a one-stop medical clinic - they are doing all they can to provide us with the best service they can offer.  I love how there is always something else to prescribe, how all parts of a person are taken into account.


But back to the oil on the forehead:


After the massages and foot oil pourings and yes, the daily busti - the table is moved so that my head will be underneath this chain that hangs from the ceiling.  A pot is attached to the chain that has a small hole in the bottom of it and a large opening in the top for pouring in the oil.  I lay down on a soft vinyl mat that has a neck rest on it and an extension of vinyl beyond that. This extension goes beyond the table and can be pushed down gently to send oil from my scalp and hair into a pot or bowl.  I'm not sure because Sneha puts wet cotton on my eyes as soon as I lay back.  When everything is set up, the light is turned off - a wonderful respite from the bright light.  Anjali put on some Indian music on a transistor radio, and the oil pouring begins.


For about 20 mins, Anjali moves the pot of pouring oil like a pendulum across my forehead from side to side, fairly close to the scalp.  The neck rest causes my head to tilt back.  The oil stays about an inch above the bridge of my nose and pours into my scalp.  It's warm and lukewarm and rhythmic and VERY soothing.  Along with moving the oil vessel back and forth, she somehow refills the pot with oil so that the chopstick thin pour is never interrupted. Both times now I have peacefully dozed off during the treatment.  If I awaken I fall back to sleep pretty quickly.  Another genius method.  


I slept better after that first shirodhara treatment than I have since I arrived.  And in the morning I felt more elated and my foot felt better.  I thought - "Wow, I've just had the miracle treatment and I get it five more times!"  I went on the aforementioned shopping spree with Aruna and her sister and another friend.  Aruna and I expected that I would sit in chairs and people would bring things over to me to look at - but I ended up standing and walking quite a bit.  We were both very surprised and I was delighted.  The fabrics here are truly astoundingly beautiful - and some of the workmanship on hand-made textiles from the countryside is unique and very colorful.  I even saw gorgeous fabric that was tie dyed - treated as very special (known by a different name of course), an inspiration to hippies past and present. 


Then we went to another shop with thousands of scarves piled high in every color and fabric.  We walked on the streets amongst the jackfruit and other food stands, taxis, motorcycles, and loads of people shopping on the Sunday "holiday," a day when the vast majority of folks don't work.  It felt so great to walk on the asphalt - just to be out and walk!  The hotel room is fabulous, but being in the hustle and bustle quite fun.  Our wonderful Nan de Kumar drove us everywhere we needed to go and then took me back here to the hotel. 

Shopping Partners - The Sisters

Jackfruit - not your typical fruit

After lunch and a short rest, Nan de Kumar returned and it was off to the clinic again for another heavenly, healing interlude.  


As you may be able to tell from Cloud's postings - he is a miracle of ancient medicine.  It's like the world (or most of it) has lifted off his shoulders and his goofiest, silliest and sweetest self is swimming in a mostly pain-free pool of that delicious lemony-sugary syrup of gulab jamun.  


I go again in another half-hour.  After so much walking, my feet have had to recover all day and we've laid low.  I wish I could say I'm as elated as Cloud - but I'm still working through the feelings and the pain - feeling a bit stuck again today.  But those are the ups and downs of the healing process.  Cloud is sleeping again.  Not only are the doctors and treatments amazing and effective - the enforced rest, relaxation, and sleep that he's getting here has been worth the long, long journey to India.  I can truly say he is getting what he needs - 'cause if you try sometimes, you just might find - . . . .

It's pomegranate season!

Just What the Doctor Ordered-The Perfect Cure (With a Cherry on Top)

So Laurie comes back to the room last night with a scarf of very pretty material completely wrapped around her head and a curious "you won't believe what I'm about to tell you" expression on her face.  And then she tells me...after getting the warm oil poured very slowly across her forehead (which put her to sleep by the way; she was lying on her back and the oil running throughout her hair and completely soaking her scalp) Anjali informs her that she cannot wash her hair for 3 days; not to mention that this will continue to be done for the next 6 days.  What about the pillows you say...good question: some rubs with one of the bathroom hand towels,  and one of our hotel bathing towels folded over the pillows and, voila, you have the making of the new sleeping arrangement; special for Laurie.  And the scarf?  That was given to Laurie by Anjali since no one mentioned to Laurie that something like that would be needed.  Anjali had not intended for that nice material to be used in such a manner, so yes, a replacement will be in order.

Well, Laurie did mention that she enjoyed the treatment (Shirodhara) very much; but did express some concerns about reaching a level of 'Greasehead' status that even I have not yet come close to attaining.  And, she was to go shopping tomorrow as well...in public for crying out loud!  Well Anjali would have none of that - "...treatment is more important than shopping." And, for good measure she informed Laurie that no one, Laurie included, was allowed to discuss her foot condition and make any references to such in the negative.  This was under strict orders from none other than Dr. Pendse (the non-shopping Dr. Pendse).  He really wants Laurie to dramatically reduce her sense of worry and concern, as he sees this as a contributory factor to her condition.

Well, whaddya know, I come home today from my treatment and Laurie tells me she's feeling better.  Then, she goes out for the pre-planned shopping excursion with the other Dr. Pendse (Aruna; the doctor that shops; as well as her sister).  Nearly four hours later a knock comes to the door and I open it to not only Laurie, but one of the friendly, young, not very big, hotel workers (bell-hop, room service, hospitality), trying to maintain his balance with the multitudes of bags he has in his possession (you guessed it...the CHERRY ON TOP).

I gotta tell you, Laurie is now seeming like her old self.  All it took was getting greased over and shopped out (at least I hope so, unless there is a plan to purchase some more luggage to haul it all back).  But hey, she said that she was able to stand for a lengthy period of time and do some walking without pain, and when the pain did come it did not last as long as it has been.  We're making strides here folks.  Also, in fairness to Laurie, she informed me that both Aruna and her sister kept telling her that the likelihood of her ever returning to India was slight so there was no reason not to buy out as much of the city as is humanly possible in one day.  It's great seeing Laurie feeling so much better today and looking so as well...and there's a photo to prove it...

What'd I tell you, is that a beautiful, happy, contented smile...or what?  And she's looking at me...awww, lucky me!!

As for me, I slept a solid 7 hours last night and it was agreed at my session this morning that I deserve not one, but TWO gold stars!!   Vikrant ended up working on me alone today as Gajanan's condition seems to be getting worse, so he rested in Dr. Pendse's office.  And yes, I did bring the computer in again for another round of musical Panchakarma.  Today has actually been very warm and folks are out in full force, as Sunday is the day to rest, shop, gather with family, meander around, etc.  We were reading about other parts of India, like Uttar Pradesh, which is the state that borders Nepal up in the north, and where the Taj Mahal is.  Turns out, even though you would be extremely (and I do mean extremely) hard pressed to find a spot around here to be alone (save for the hotel room) that this isn't even the most populated state in India.  There's roughly three to three and a half more people in this country than ours, at one-third the size.

Anyway, fifteen days of treatments under our belts, which by the way seem to be tightening; and we are starting to look at the home stretch...

School's out...right in front of the clinic (about 5:40 pm)

Corn on the cob vendor - not on my current diet (sigh!)

Shubha Raatri (Good Night) for now, and Namaste to all...

Kaise (Kai'-say) Hai (Hey) - How You' Doin'?

Kaise Hai (actually "How are You?", though "How you' doin'" is more fun).

We just got back up to the room after another wonderful lunch (our biggest meal of the day), a very short stroll up the block, and a nice long visit with the young folks at the front desk (learning more Hindi and Marathi words); not to mention some waves and "Kaise Hai"(s) along the way.  There was also a visit with a large friendly fellow, the head of corporate sales for the hotel, Mr. Robert Young.  He has relatives in San Francisco and, when he found out I worked in music, he told me he likes Bryan Adams and Kenny Rogers.  I told him there was a famous TV actor that had the same name as him (Father Knows Best), and we parted with me shaking his hand and saying "Goodbye famous actor Robert Young"...he seemed pretty happy.

 

(Upper two photos are of our usual friendly waiters in the restaurant, lower left is of the late morning to early evening cute and fun front desk staff, and the lower right is of three of our usual housekeeping staff.  Everyone is friendly and helpful)


Laurie's gone off now to the clinic...today she gets the added technique of warm oil poured over her forehead; can't wait to hear how that went.  We both saw Dr. Pendse last night and he has decided to add that technique to her regime.  She also went in this morning with me, her first morning trip, and saw Pendse Madam (Mrs. Dr. Pendse) for some chiropractic work on her left upper back.  She will be going back to see her on Tuesday morning, and she will also be looking at her foot pain.  When Laurie arrived today with me (no clinic happening when I'm there first thing in the morning) Gajanan opened Dr. Pendse's office and let Laurie lie on the little raised bed he uses for checking abdomens, pulses etc.  It's nice and comfortable and she laid there and read.  Conversely, the previous night, when I was there early while she was getting treated, I sat outside the office on the hard steps or in the crowded waiting room, reading; as well as going for a walk to a nearby park thru the multitudes of commuters, students, motorcycles, scooters, bicycles and more.  Boy does she get the special treatment.  To top things off this morning, after we both complimented Mrs. Pendse on her outfit she asked Laurie if she wanted to go shopping for some herself... "DUH!!".  I asked her the brilliant question as to whether she (Mrs. Pendse) enjoys shopping herself..."DOUBLE DUH!!"  Well, there you have it, two peas in a pod, already planning on meeting tomorrow to go do what Mrs. Pendse so proudly and happily claimed is a woman's right and calling; their joy.  Me, I'm a shlub, a proud representative of the vast majority of my gender...go team go (yawn)!

The Man, the Doctor, the Legend...

The Woman, the Doctor, I'm assuming the true boss...

There are more motorcycles and motor scooters here in Pune then probably any one place on the entire planet; I kid you not...I have never seen anything come anywhere close to the sheer volume that is here in this city of 8-9 million people.  That's right, you read it right, 8-9 million people...nothing like getting away to the country for a nice relaxing vacation after a hard year or two of work (Yea-Haw!!).  I've got to  tell you, the daily drives are like going thru a continuous movie set, or back-lot of a movie studio, only probably much more colorful, more entertaining, more exciting, better.  That is some dance out there, it is really hard to describe the absolute, continuous knife's edge of chaos, beauty, grace, near tragedy, poverty, filth, trash, calm, air and noise pollution, potential apoplexy, spirituality, and overwhelming color that embodies the daily theatre of life that takes place before our eyes during each day's trips in the rick-shaw; not to mention the walks around, and across (Oh God, Please, I've been Good!) the streets.

 

I hate to get side-tracked here in the middle of the photo collage, but remember the mention of the pillow predicament?  Well, take a look at this...

Okay, so how many pillows do YOU SEE on my side of the bed?!  "Welcome Home Honey!  While you're up would you please get me the..." Ah Yes, I do LOVE my pillow-laden wife, but hey...

So last night Dr. Pendse continued to give me quite the positive feedback, letting me know that I continue to progress, as does Laurie (though she has been feeling more continuous pain than me these days).  He likened my situation to a two horse drawn chariot.  On the one side is a very strong, active, agile 30 year old mind with the abilities to multi-task a large number of things simultaneously, with a maturity in its 40s; and on the other side a physical body that is around 62 (about 5 years older than I am).  The problem seems to stem from the imbalance between the two and what the doctors have been trying to do as of late is provide enough suppleness and renewed strength to my physical body to be able to withstand the next phase of trying to bring everything more into balance.  He started me on a first meditation of breathing in one nostril and out the other and then repeating in the opposite direction.  He does not want to slow my mind down but he does want it to reduce its hold over everything, as the imbalance reached a critical phase with my physical being no longer able to keep up or cope with the stress created by my mental activity.  He said that in the future he will give me more meditations and that the inability to eat a lot of foods will most likely change as I bring everything more into balance.  What is rather amazing is that prior to seeing him Laurie and I discussed some of the questions we wanted to ask and one of them for me was whether he felt stress or foods were more important to my condition; and before I said anything he launched into answering the question.  

With Laurie he feels strongly that she needs to nurture more of her creative elements, be it writing, drawing, or gardening, to help her along with her condition; and the results will be forthcoming without actually concentrating and worrying with specificity about her prognosis (easier said than done but sage advice nonetheless).  He has also, to Laurie's delight, made the suggestion, at least over here, that I consider having some chicken; preferably in a soup form to start (now that is something both Jewish Grandmas could get behind in the biggest of ways; probably with huge grins on their faces.  Not so fast though, true to form I'm being somewhat slow and stubborn about this).  I haven't had chicken in over 40 years...to which Vikrant replied with a wide grin (when I told him) "Well, now you start" and then proceeded to offer me a high five; the same thing Dr. Pendse did when I relayed to him what Vikrant said to me.  What's with these people, high fiving over chicken?!! Oh, and mutton was thrown in as well...this after I was told not to eat much in the way of peas or corn...simply wonderful news for a vegetarian, to go along with everything else I shouldn't eat, though I've been given the go ahead to have some dishes over here that have nightshades in them.  Like the grandfather said with tears in his eyes toward the end of the movie "Moonstruck", "I'm confused...!"

There is a plan for us to have a one to two hour meeting with him next week to go over all of our questions and lay the groundwork for the next couple of months of continued treatment when we are back in the States.  That's right folks, as far as everyone over here is concerned, our treatment does not end here in India, but must be maintained when we return home if we want to continue to see positive results.  I, for one, can really feel a growing improvement and have not had my allopathic medicine now for 9 straight nights. Aside from the pain in her left foot and upper back Laurie has noticed a lot of positive change with her system as well, and today she felt the muscles in my left leg and foot, as well as my shoulders, and was amazed at how relaxed and supple they were (a huge, major difference then the status quo that she has felt over the years).

At today's session I brought in my laptop to play some music for Vikrant especially; as well as Gajanan.  We had been talking about it for a few days and I finally lugged the computer and adaptor over to the clinic.  As we prepared to start I gave Vikrant a quick tour of Errol Garner, Louis Armstrong and Nat King Cole (a little bit of Jazz), then when we started with the warm oil (color and consistency of transmission fluid) over the feet I played some traditional classical Indian music with Ali Akbar Khan (sarod), Nikhil Bannerjee (sitar) and Swapan Chaudary (tabla).  Vikrant enjoyed this, and then I decided I needed something longer for the duration of the session and went to one of my mixes.  As I lay there getting oiled (tranny fluid again) up and down my legs (I'm on my back now) I started "Wondering Where The Lions Are" (Bruce Cockburn), and as they worked on my feet I began to feel like a "Nowhere Man" (Beatles).  As my abdomen was rubbed my mind floated to "Love at the Five and Dime" (Hart Rouge) and I wondered if I would get "In the Sweet By and By" (Dolly Parton).  My upper torso and arms got a good working over as I contemplated if Laurie would "Lay Lady Lay" (Bob Dylan) across the big brass bed that I don't even have.  As I flipped over to get my back exquisitely worked on I drifted to "China" Chin-ay far away (Greg Brown), and dreamed of sweet "Melissa" (Allman Brothers).  As my shorts were dropped down, so as not exclude my (fill it in for yourselves...butt, tush, rear, bum, posterior...that's as far as I'm going here) the perfectly timed "Beautiful Boy (Darling Boy) (John Lennon) came on wafting thru the room (well I thought it was perfectly timed).  Now down to the back of my legs and Vikrant asks about the music coming from the computer and it is Nanci Griffiths doing John Prine's "Speed of the Sound of Loneliness"; which he lets me know he likes very much.  This is followed by Dougie MacLean's "Solid Ground" and the Old Blind Dogs "Rolling Home".  I am now getting seriously nostalgic and my mind is wandering back thru the years of all the music and connections I have been most fortunate to have experienced thru the years; and I am enjoying the music like I have not for quite some time (I really must be getting better folks; it ain't just an improved appetite or being able to walk with more ease).  I explain to Vikrant that the Dogs are the first group I really worked with; man, my mind is going back now, and enjoying the thoughts.  And then...then...on comes one of my favorite  songs (that I never seem to tire of), Harry Nillson's version of "Everybody's Talkin'" and I let the guys know that I absolutely love this song and it must have been something in my voice because Vikrant asks me if I am feeling nostalgic..."Yep, I sure am".

Well, a few songs later it's time for my busti (for you newcomers that's spelled e-n-e-m-a).  Got to have the right music for that...right?!!  Wellll, you guessed it...Louis Armstrong's "What A Wonderful World"...hey, you can't make this stuff up...So, Kaise Hai...Here's Lookin' at Ya...BOTTOMS UP!!

Chicken?! OY!!!